Ola Brew Co. Aims to Restore an Ancient Hawaiian Alcohol Tradition

In late 2017, Kailua-Kona welcomed a new taproom to its blooming craft brew scene: Ola Brew Co. Co-founders Naehalani Breeland and Brett Jacobson set out to break the mold, empowering Hawaiʻi’s community and agriculture economy. December 2022 marked their 5-year anniversary, and this Kanaka-owned and Big Island-grown business intends to continue perpetuating the heart of Hawaiʻi in their present endeavor: restoring the art of ʻōkolehao (liquor distilled from ti plants) on Hawaiʻi Island.

PICTURED ABOVE: Ola Brew Co.’s original taproom in Kailua-Kona | Photo: ARKCANA

Ola’s coastal farm in Paukaʻa is lined with rows of kī (ti leaf), their verdant leaves stretching out towards the sky. The 40-acre property, leased from Kamehameha Schools, is ground zero for Ola’s ʻōkolehao operation.

Sacred to Lonoikamakahiki, Hawaiian god of fertility and prosperity, and Laka, goddess of hula, the kī plant is an abundant resource in Hawaiʻi. Planted around homes, it wards off evil spirits; it is woven into attire and adornments, including lei; it envelopes offerings and strengthens medicines. It is also the primary ingredient in ʻōkolehao.

Ola’s Chief Science Officer Constantin Heitkamp has been powering the research and development of ʻōkolehao for the past three years, but this distilled, indigenous Hawaiian spirit has a history stretching far beyond that; Hawaiians were brewing alcohol made from the kī plant long before Westerners arrived. They would roast the root ball in an imu (underground oven), before integrating it into a brew with 2% ABV (alcohol by volume). English seamen in 1790 would later introduce new distilling techniques to Hawaiians, increasing the alcohol content to a potent 50% ABV.

Despite ʻōkolehao often being called a moonshine, it is not a whiskey. Instead, the kī plant is a close relative to agave. This gives it a flavor profile similar to caramel or molasses, like its cousin, tequila.

After Ola leased the land from Kamehameha Schools, Hilo residents were mortified by the possibility that a big company would develop the land. However, once Ola hung Hawaiian flags and put their signage up, Big Island residents were soothed, attesting to Ola’s positive impact on the community. | Photo: ARKCANA

Much of the Paukaʻa farm’s acreage is being prepped for incoming root balls, and perpetuating their continuous growth, but a portion of the farm is dedicated to other “canoe plants.” These plants were brought to the islands by early South Polynesian settlers, and have historically flourished in the islands.

Farm manager Kaʻikena Scanlan is responsible for overseeing the Paukaʻa farm. Naehalani described him as a farmer today and a well-known musician tomorrow. A figurehead of the Hawaiian sovereignty movement, he anchors Ola to the Hawaiian community and culture. Kaʻikena was brought onto the team to integrate sustainable and historical farming methods at the Paukaʻa site. He weeds the 40 acres by hand, using fallen ki leaves as a natural weed mat and ground cover. “It takes extra work, but it shows a personal relationship with the land and a love for it,” he says.

Kaʻikena has extensive experience working and managing farms. Working at the Paukaʻa farm location has allowed him to both work closer to home and perpetuate aloha ʻāina (love of the land). | Photo: ARKCANA

Since its first draft beer in 2017, Ola has outsourced most of their ingredients from local farmers (with the exception of grains and hops, which do not grow in the islands). Since opening, it has spent $1.5 million on local agriculture, and even as Ola develops the Paukaʻa site, it will continue to purchase ingredients from local farmers. Fifty consistent farmers, as well as other sporadic contributors, have been the backbone to Ola’s success and operation. As the company grows, it operates by the aphorism, “A rising tide lifts all boats.”

As Ola perfects its process, they intend to teach outside farmers and begin to outsource ki from them, as well. ʻŌkolehao’s potential to be entirely made in Hawaiʻi means it has the potential to be Hawaiʻi’s biggest agricultural commodity in history — bigger than sugar cane, coffee, and pineapple.

Once released, ʻōkolehao will be Ola’s first spirit. Its facility in Kona handles Ola’s current line of alcohol — ciders, seltzers, and beers. In February 2022, Ola purchased the old Wainaku Executive Center and will renovate it into a distillery. C. Brewer & Co. erected the building as a sugar mill in 1894; Ola is returning the building to its agricultural roots.

With a goal to open the new distillery in 2024, the site will feature a new restaurant, tasting area, and viewing area to see ʻōkolehao’s distillation process. Until then, the Kona and Hilo tap rooms are open for business.

The Ola story began in 2012, when founder Brett Jacobson launched Hawaiian Ola to create a demand for Hawaiʻi-grown agriculture. The product line included noni shots, non-alcoholic sparkling beverages, and coffee leaf teas. It was during this phase, now-President Naehalani joined Hawaiian Ola as the marketing manager, bringing her back home to Hawaiʻi after many years on the mainland.

Hawaiian Ola would expand into the alcohol market in 2016 as Hawaiʻi Cider Co., introducing Hawaiʻi’s first locally grown, locally produced hard cider. The cider operation would continue to perpetuate the islands’ agricultural economy, while mitigating food waste by using B-grade fruits that would otherwise be tossed.

Eventually, in 2017, Ola Brew Co. entered the market as the current iteration of the Ola name, and would be the first in Hawaiʻi to hop on the new hard seltzer trend in 2018.

Naehalani Breeland is the co-founder and president of Ola Brew Co. | Photo: ARKCANA

Naehalani said, “We’ll always be about agriculture. That will always be our North Star. It will always be about the health and wellness of our ‘āina.”